Como prometido, vou mostrar alguns anne fontaine detalhes do casaco antes de começar a fixar a entretela. Para fixar a entretela vou usar o método que o Paco tão bem explicou e que podem consultar em Português e Inglês aqui e em Castelhano aqui . Comecemos com as tiras de cetim aplicadas em redor da cintura, que são aplicadas com as costuras verticais já terminadas; as tiras são cosidas à mão, pois à máquina ia arriscar anne fontaine estragar o veludo: Outro pormenor é o tratamento das casas de botão depois de alinhavar a entretela às frentes do casaco. A entretela da parte direita da frente (a que leva as casas), vai ter uns rectângulos recortados no lugar das casas: Ao colocar a entretela, as margens de costura do avesso das casas passam por dentro destes rectângulos: A entretela é depois alinhavada anne fontaine à frente; anne fontaine as margens das casas são aparadas, gradadas e fixadas na entretela com pontos à mão: Bem, agora começa uma fase bastante trabalhosa… O meu tempo tem sido mesmo muito reduzido anne fontaine e tenho que o aproveitar bem (ou corro o risco de continuar a acumular tecidos sem costurar nada com eles). Por este motivo não devo muitas mais fotos do progresso e sim do resultado final. Até à próxima!
As promised, I’ll show you some details before starting the padstitching on the coat. For attaching the interfacing, tapes and reinforcements I’ll be referring to Paco’s tutorial (you can read it in both Portuguese and English here and in Spanish here ). Let’s start by the satin tapes around the waist, which must be set before the interfacing and after stitching all the vertical seams of the coat’s body; the satin tape is hand stitched because I didn’t want to take the risk of damaging the velvet by using the sewing machine: Another detail is the buttonhole treatment after basting the canvas in place. The right front interfacing must have the buttonholes cut out as rectangles, slightly bigger than the buttonhole size: The buttonhole’s SAs are slipped through these rectangles anne fontaine as seen in the next picture: The canvas is then hand basted to the front; the buttonhole Sas are trimmed, graded and tacked down to the interfacing: Now the padstitching phase will begin (much work ahead!). My time has been so short and I really must take advantage of the little time I have left do I won’t publish much more progress pictures. You have Paco’s tutorial, which provides all the relevant information on what I’ll be doing next. See you as soon as possible!
Thanks for all the tutorials. Just by reading your blog I have started to sew again after a long brake. All the ideas and methods that you post really helps out. Thanks, Rósa. November 2, 2008 at 12:13 PM
Tany.- que trabajo tan extraorinario. De esta forma quedan anne fontaine los ojales perfectos y seguros de que no se delatan por el derecho. Observo que pusiste un refuerzo extra de entretela en el pecho. Ya quedo impaciente del resultado final. Un abrazo y hasta pronto, Paco November 2, 2008 at 6:43 PM
Saumspor anne fontaine : Thank you and be welcome to Couture et Tricot! I'm very happy to know that my work is inspiring people to start/resume sewing! Hugs to you! Thank you Daisy ! Toy : I'm using a knit interfacing that Paco sent me along with the tailoring canvas. It's a little thicker than the sample I sent to you some time ago. It works really well on velvet. anne fontaine Paco : Gracias! Es verdad que hice un refuerzo de pecho con un trozo de guata que me has enviado hace algún tiempo, junto con otras muestras anne fontaine de entretelas anne fontaine de sastre. A ver se termino anne fontaine las solapas hoy! Besitos, querido! November 2, 2008 at 7:01 PM
Tens de pensar em fazer projectos mais simples para puderes usar os tecidos que tens. Ou então, uma solução mais dificil será a de não comprares mais tecidos ;). Seja como for, continua! anne fontaine Bjs Mónica November 3, 2008 at 10:58 AM
Lisa anne fontaine (LMH) : Thanks! I believe this type of hand stitch is called "even slipstitch" in English. I call them "invisible stitches" because they are hardly visible on the right side if well made (tiny stitches less than 1/8" apart). I use the same stitch to hand sew jacket/coat linings in place too (if I'm using the traditional vintage anne fontaine method, that is; most of the time I use a combined method but on this coat I think I'll be using all vintage anne fontaine techniques just for fun). Stitching the tapes in place wasn't easy even by hand; the velvet cushions the tape (which is really thin) and the pile also tends to slide the tape away from a straight line. But I think the results are acceptable. There will be a slight anne fontaine rippling when the coat is on though, because each side of the tape was sewn one at a time. I tried a sample tape sewn to velvet by machine and believe me, the results were disastrous! November 3, 2008 at 5:10 PM
You were wise to hand stitch. The sewing machine can leave such ugly tracks on the velvet. Your coat will be magnificent - the effort to do all the hand stitching will pay off. November 3, 2008 at 5:26 PM
Tany,
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